Celebrating 60 Years of Wilderness!

On September 3rd, 1964, President Lyndon Johnson signed the Wilderness Act into law. At the time the law was signed, 54 wilderness areas in 13 states were established. Today, there are 806 wilderness areas (including 7 in NE Oregon!) in 44 states. The law famously defined these areas in the following terms:

“A wilderness, in contrast with those areas where man and his works dominate the landscape, is hereby recognized as an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.”

While this definition of wilderness has valid criticisms (we’d need a whole separate blog post for that discussion), the Wilderness Act has protected some of our country’s most special places from intense logging and development, which is something GHCC deeply values. To celebrate the anniversary of the Wilderness Act, we’re highlighting the seven wilderness areas found in our mission area.

Wilderness in one form or another in NE Oregon has actually existed since 1940, when the Eagle Cap was designated and managed as wilderness by the Forest Service prior to the Wilderness Act’s existence. In 1964, after the law’s passage, the Eagle Caps were placed in the National Wilderness Preservation System along with the Strawberry Mountain Wilderness.

The other wilderness areas were added by three separate laws. In 1975, the Hells Canyon National Recreation Area Act included the designation of Hells Canyon Wilderness. Then,

the Wenaha-Tucannon was designated as part of the Endangered American Wilderness Act of 1978. Lastly, the North Fork Umatilla, Monument Rock, and North Fork John Day wilderness areas were added in 1984 as part of the Oregon Wilderness Act, which added 22 new wilderness areas in Oregon.

Wilderness areas, perhaps unintentionally, have become undeniably important both ecologically and for modern society. They are some of our last opportunities to interact with landscapes that mostly resemble pre-colonization. They also provide humans with access to what many feel is an essential human experience: being out on, and with, the land. And they provide us with innumerable “ecosystem services” – clean our air, store and filter our water, and provide habitat for everything from pollinators to elk to rare carnivores and beyond.

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Join us in celebrating NE Oregon wilderness areas this week (and the rest of the year!) Here are two ways you can get involved: 

1. Share Your Stories! 

As part of this historical celebration, we’re gathering stories about time spent in wilderness in NE Oregon. Did you encounter a hellish bushwhack? Have an incredible elk hunt? Work a stint as an outfitter or backcountry ranger? Go on a fun trip with family? We want to know about it! Send a note to jamie@hellscanyon.org or submit it here.

1. Join us at the Fall Gala in La Grande! 

The event will be a celebration of wilderness in NE Oregon, and will include a special story-telling event that features the tales of advocates who fought for wilderness areas in the region. If you’re interested in sharing your story at the Gala, send a note to jamie@hellscanyon.org. 

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Interested in learning more about the region's wilderness? The Forest Service has excellent overviews of NE Oregon’s seven designated Wilderness areas– we’ve compiled them all below for your reading pleasure! 

Eagle Cap Wilderness by Megan Keating

Eagle Cap – Established 1940

The Eagle Cap Wilderness lies in the heart of the Wallowa Mountains in northeastern Oregon on the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest. This country was first occupied by the ancestors of the Nez Perce Indian Tribe in 1400 A.D. and later the Cayuse, the Shoshone and Bannocks. The Eagle Cap Wilderness itself was used as hunting grounds for bighorn sheep and deer, to gather huckleberries and was the summer home to the Joseph Band of the Nez Perce tribe. 1860 marked the year the first settlers moved into the Wallowa Valley.

In 1930, the Eagle Cap was established as a primitive area. It was designated as wilderness in 1940. The Wilderness Act of 1964 placed the area in the National Wilderness Preservation System. It now totals 359,991 acres.

The Eagle Cap Wilderness is characterized by high alpine lakes and meadows, bare granite peaks and ridges, and U-shaped glaciated valleys. One is constantly reminded that nature operates on her own terms with her own rhythms that may not match our structural lives. Each season comes and goes bringing with it new challenges and adventures.

Strawberry Mountain Wilderness by Renee Patrick

Strawberry Mountain – Established in 1964

The Strawberry Mountain Wilderness is located east of John Day, Oregon, in the Malheur National Forest. The area includes approximately 68,700 acres and encompasses the headwaters of Pine, Indian, Strawberry, Canyon, Bear, Lake, Wall, Roberts, and Big Creek. The area is dominated by the Strawberry Mountain Range with the highest point being Strawberry Mountain. This area has extremely diverse ecological makeup. Five of the seven major life zones in North America can be found here. It also supports native population of Rocky Mountain Elk and other wildlife. The additions including the Canyon Creek Research Natural Area have improved both the quantity and the quality of the wilderness experience.

The complex geological story of this landscape began millions of years ago with the buckling of an ancient sea floor beneath the area where the western part of the Strawberry Range now rises. Much later, volcanic ash and lava formed the eastern part of the range. Most recently, the glacial ice carved its classic signature--U-shaped valleys--into the mountains. The ice also hollowed out the rock beds that today hold the seven alpine lakes of the Strawberry Mountain Wilderness--rare pleasures in the arid wilderness experience.

Hells Canyon Wilderness by Travis Howe

Hells Canyon – Established 1975

The Hells Canyon Wilderness is composed of 217,927 acres of high mountain peaks, ominous canyon rim-rocks, breathtaking vistas, and quieting solitude.

Established in 1975 as part of the Hells Canyon National Recreation Act (P.L. 94-199) the wilderness is split by the Snake River into two distinct areas – one in Oregon and the smaller portion in Idaho. Although the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest has the lead stewardship responsibility, the wilderness also includes lands from the Payette National Forest, Nez Perce National Forest, and Bureau of Land Management.

At lower elevations on the Idaho side, dry, barren, steep slopes break over into the Snake River canyon. In the high country are the towering peaks, rock-faced slopes, and alpine lakes of the Seven Devils Mountain Range - said to be named for a vision of seven dancing devils that appeared to an Indian lost in the area. The legend fits. Here, splendid mountain peaks rise well over 9,000 feet, and bear names like She Devil, He Devil, Ogre, Goblin, Devil's Throne, Mt. Belial and Twin Imps.

On both the Oregon and Idaho sides the higher elevation areas are characteristic of rocky slopes and grasslands laced with 'stringer canyons' and groves composed of Douglas fir and ponderosa pine. The lower elevations are dominated by grassland benches with steep canyons and ravines dissecting the isolated Oregon-side. Species of interest are Rocky Mountain elk, Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep, mule deer, and chukar.

Monument Rock Wilderness by Renee Patrick

Monument Rock – Established in 1984

The Monument Rock Wilderness is located at the southernmost edge of the Blue Mountains and along the eastern edge of the Strawberry Mountain range. The area was established by Congress in 1984 as part of the Oregon Wilderness Act (P.L. 98-328).

Encompassing 20,079 acres, this wilderness spans the Malheur and Wallowa-Whitman National Forests. Offering views across much of northeastern Oregon, elevations range from 5,200 feet in the lower slopes to 7,815 feet atop Table Rock. The northern end of the area lies across a watershed divide that separates the headwaters of the Little Malheur River and the upper drainage of the South Fork Burnt River.

The wilderness is mostly forested with ponderosa pine in lower hills stretching up to subalpine fir along the peaks. Other tree species include lodgepole pine, Douglas-fir, white fir, aspen, and juniper. Intermingled amongst the pine-fir forests and riparian stream bottoms are native grasslands with bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue and other indigenous grasses. Throughout the area is a diversity of wildlife habitat for species such as mule deer, Rocky Mountain elk, badgers, and the rare wolverine. There are 70 species of birds living here, including the creek-loving American dipper and the pileated woodpecker. Soils in the area are predominantly volcanic ash, and rocks that are mostly lavas poured out over the land.

North Fork John Day Wilderness by Megan Keating

North Fork John Day – Established in 1984

From rolling benchlands to the granite outcrops of the Greenhorn Mountains, the rugged North Fork John Day Wilderness provides an abundance of natural diversity. The wilderness is known primarily for its big game (Rocky Mountain elk and mule deer) and its anadromous fish habitat. There are over 130 miles of perennial streams, 40 miles of which provide spawning habitat for Chinook salmon and steelhead.

The wilderness was established by the Oregon Wilderness Act of 1984. Its 121,560 acres include 85,000 acres in the North Fork John Day drainage and three smaller satellites: the Greenhorn and Tower Mountain Units, and the Baldy Creek Unit on the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest. Six thousand acres of the Vinegar Hill-Indian Rock Scenic Area are also included. In 1988, a 39-mile segment of the North Fork John Day River was designated as a Wild and Scenic River.

The North Fork John Day Wilderness is located southeast of Ukiah, Oregon and northwest of Baker City, Oregon. The small town of Granite lies close to the eastern wilderness boundary. Over 100 miles of trails serving this area are popular for both hiking and horseback riding. The nature of the area provides long-distance trips with significant elevation changes. The area is accessible from early spring to late fall from several trail heads located around its perimeter.

The North Fork John Day drainage was a bustling gold and silver mining area in the middle to late 1800's. Old mining structures, building foundations, waterworn rock, dredged ditches, and other traces are still visible of people who removed an estimated $10 million in gold and silver.

North Fork Umatilla Wilderness

North Fork Umatilla – Established in 1984

The North Fork Umatilla Wilderness, located 30 miles east of Pendleton, is the smallest wilderness in northeast Oregon. It encompasses only 20,299 acres in Umatilla and Union counties. But this little wilderness feels much bigger for those who take the time to trek into the heart of the area and fully experience its variety of terrain and vegetation. Visitors find the area peaceful, yet challenging and enjoyable from early spring through late fall. Hunting, hiking, and equestrian use are important activities occurring in the wilderness.

Added to the Wilderness Preservation System on June 26, 1984, the North Fork Umatilla Wilderness is relatively new. One of the major driving forces behind this wilderness designation was the production of high-quality water from the North Fork Umatilla River. The North Fork Umatilla River supports sizeable runs of anadromous fish, which makes this area a popular spot for anglers. There are also several streams within the wilderness that contain native trout, and a few streams support spawning steelhead.

The wilderness is characterized by terrain that varies from gentle, sloping hills to extremely steep, timbered canyons. The elevation in the area ranges from 2,000 to 6,000 feet, assuring a good workout for hikers and equestrians using the 27-mile trail system. The wild, unpredictable weather of the Blue Mountains also adds to the challenge anytime of the year. If you enjoy hunting and spotting wildlife, the North Fork Umatilla Wilderness supports a good wildlife population. Since the elevation is relatively low, the trail system opens up early in the season, providing opportunities for spring hiking and horseback-riding trips.

Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness by Jamie Dawson

Wenaha-Tucannon – Established in 1978

The Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness was created by the Endangered American Wilderness Act of 1978. This wilderness is located in the northern Blue Mountains of southeastern Washington and northeastern Oregon and encompasses 176,557 acres.

The majority of the wilderness is characterized by rugged basaltic ridges and outcroppings separated by deep canyons with steep side slopes. Elevations range from 2,000 feet on the Wild and Scenic Wenaha River to 6,401 feet at Oregon Butte. Plant communities vary widely from bunchgrass slopes to higher subalpine areas of lodgepole pine and subalpine fir. Nearly every wildlife species present in the Blue Mountains can be found within the Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness including Rocky Mountain elk, bighorn sheep, whitetail and mule deer, black bear, cougar, coyote, and pine martens. Both the Tucannon and Wenaha Rivers provide good spawning habitat for Chinook salmon and steelhead.

The managed trail system within the wilderness totals over 200 miles. Trails are managed to provide a primitive, unconfined recreation experience as well as access to various portions of the wilderness. Several developed campgrounds are located at or near major trail heads around the perimeter of the wilderness. The primary recreation activity within the wilderness has traditionally been elk hunting with a large number of hunters packing into the wilderness on horses each fall. Recently, however, there has been an increase in anglers and backpackers during the summer and early fall months. The area is very popular with horseback riders, and several trail heads are equipped to accommodate horses.

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Do these descriptions leave a little something to be desired? Missing some spice? Send a note about your experience in these Wilderness areas to Jamie to at jamie@hellscanyon.org or submit it here.